CATRINAS, MARIGOLDS AND ALTARS

 
 

In Mexico, el Dia de los Muertos or the Day of the Dead, is a cherished time of the year. Considered a religious holiday, it is not only about death but, perhaps even more, life. It is a profound celebration of lost loved ones with roots in pre-Colombian culture.

While for Westerners, Halloween, or originally, Hallowed Eve takes place on October 31st, here it encompasses November 1st and 2nd. Reflecting both Mesoamerican and Western cultures, each day has a particular significance. With the more commercial October 31st including candies given to kids, the mosaic has grown even larger. Still, relatives and friends pay a visit to the cemetery while also inviting their loved ones to a candle-lit altar at home. Co-mingling with the living once again is the sincere hope — albeit for a brief moment. 

As a lure a profuse plethora of ofrendas or offerings is assembled. Featured are bright orange marigolds or Cempasuchil in Nahuatl, as well as Cresta de Gallo or deep red cockscomb representing the blood of Christ. On the altar, images of the loved ones are surrounded by a generous offering of oranges, seeds, breads, ornate and colorful sweets, even tiny, fancy chairs.  And, while a glass of water along with purifying salt helps the loved one on his or her journey between the two worlds, a shot of tequila won't hurt either, nor will a bottle of wine.

In typical Western tradition, Halloween costumes are fairly “standard” in appearance. However, in Mexico, the female Catrina, also known as La Calavera Catrina or the dapper female skull, comes out all dressed up in elaborate, sophisticated clothes. Here, in San Miguel de Allende's plaza or Jardin, one encounters them with their skeletal-like painted white and black faces all decked out in late 19th century lace and satin dresses. And, let’s not forget the veils, tiaras and fanciful hats. 

The male Catrin can also take part in the spectacle donning fanciful 19th century styled garb featuring a top hat and a cane as seen in the photo below with three children.

Ambling about town amid artistically designed altars with their ofrendas or offerings, makes for a theatrical experience only enhanced by performing mariachis. To top it off come the processions including one with costumed dogs. (In pre-Colonial times dogs were viewed as leading to the underworld, especially for a deceased child.)

 
 

The Catrina first appeared on the scene when, in 1910, the political satirist, José Guadelupe Posada, mocked the wealthy bourgeoisie by drawing women’s skull-like faces adorned by fanciful hats and elaborate feathers, reminiscent of the Aztec god, Quetzalcoatl.  A few decades later, Diego Rivera immortalized la Catrina in his famous mural: Sueno de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (Dream of a Sunday afternoon at the Alameda Central). With striped socks and rather short, he appears holding a Catrina’s hand with Frida Kahlo behind him. The message, particularly for the wealthy, was not to reject their indigenous roots and adopt fancy garb. Another message: no matter one’s social status, death is the ultimate equalizer.

Not to forget and iconic too are the ubiquitous marigolds, or Cempasuchil in Nahuatl, native to Mexico. Overflowing bouquets, assemblages and lavish, decorated doors and windows envelop the Centro Historico. Why marigolds? And why a flower that, unlike the seductive perfume of a rose, doesn’t particularly entice? As one man in the mercado explained: “well, you know how the body smells after it dies….” Most agree that it’s their odor that invites the dead to pay a visit.

In welcoming a beloved dead person - or animal, with offerings, the next stage is bidding them a safe journey “home”. Thus, from ancient times, marigolds have been viewed as leading the way back to a complex underworld determined by age, status, etc. Celebrating the Christian, All Saints Day on November 1st and the more ancient, All Souls’ Day on the 2nd, the Roman Catholic Church, in all its “wisdom” incorporated both.

I also relish in my return to Mexico where I can, on a small level, partake in this melding of ancient Mesoamerican cultures with the European. But, let’s not forget that Christianity also borrowed from pagan, autumnal rituals. But that’s another story…

PS As an example of such fusion is the marigold cross below. While traditionally a symbol of Christ, it also points to the four directions: East, West, North South from which will travel the souls of the deceased.