An Ethiopian Landscape

In my previous piece, “Afar”, we visited a remote, exotic and hot part of Ethiopia: the Danakil Depression. Little did I know before going that, at 400 feet below sea level, it is the consistently hottest place on the planet Here, I’d like to share images and a little information on other stunning, natural beauties such as the Blue Nile Falls and the Simien Mountains.

Ethiopia, the size of Texas and Oklahoma combined, has a population of over 100 million. It also offers one of the oldest civilizations in the world dating back millennia. Going further back in time the 3.5 million year old “Lucy” was uncovered here giving it the credit for being the “cradle” of our species. It also bears the distinction of being the oldest Christian “country” founded in the 4th century after Armenia. Both are Orthodox with Ethiopia resembling more the Egyptian Coptics. But more about that in my next piece: By the Hands of Angels where I will share images of Lalibela’s famous, hand-hewn stone churches of the 12th century.

After short flights and long, sometimes arduous, drives, we entered the impressive Simien mountains in Amhara that reach up close to 15,000 feet. Encompassing a national park, it is also a World Heritage Site. Our beautiful lodge, at an altitude of 10,000 feet provided chilly nights making us further appreciate the hot water bottle handed out by the staff as we headed to bed. During a hike in the morning we came across the native Gelada monkeys. As in the Galapagos, they have remained undisturbed by humans and are not shy. We simply walked freely about them while they pulled out grass and roots (they’re vegetarian), played or mated. The males, with their gorgeous, blond head of fur like a lion make their presence known.

Moving onto the Tigray region, David and I, during a short hike at dawn, encountered another native creature, the Rock Hyrax. While it may resemble a gopher, it has sharp claws and is apparently related to the elephant! More shy and less social than the Gelada monkeys, we spotted a couple hanging onto a cliff with a Mexican nopal (prickly pear) beneath.

Since this piece is about landscapes, I can’t avoid but share a slideshow of flora. As it turns out, John Leupold, our leader and I are both landscape designers and avid plant lovers. One species he made sure I distinguished from a very similar looking cactus here in Mexico, the Garambullo was the Euphorbia candelabra, also a succulent. Next are elegant African Acacias, the drooping old man’s beard (an Epiphyte not to be confused with Spanish moss), Hagenis abyssinica with its coral colored flowers and finally a Centaurea flower visited by a butterfly.

As we headed east towards the Rift Valley, came a region reminding us of the Southwest with statuesque pinnacles, monoliths, canyons and cliffs.

Within such a barren area, one wonders how people survive. Fortunately, unlike the Danakil Depression we visited last, summer brings rain and fall is a time of harvest. Cows, sheep and goats continue to graze throughout the year. In fact, livestock in Ethiopia is believed to be the largest in Africa.

Not all is wilderness as we discovered after a short hike to an ancient church and monastery.