Part 1 Voyage to the "End of the World"

Voyage to the “End of the World” Part 1

Until recently visiting Argentina, I had but a scant sense of how expansive, varied, complex and culturally rich a country awaited. Way back when, I had visions of gauchos riding horseback in the wild pampas — something I dreamed of partaking in one day. Tango wasn’t too far off my list either.

In January 2024, David and I flew from Mexico City to Buenos Aires, a.ka.the “Paris of South America”. Later joining a National Geographic tour group, we would explore Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. First though, we got to spend a few days in the capital. Renowned for its culture and history of opulence as manifest in its elegant European architecture, it had once sought to compete with cities on the other side of the Atlantic. Much has changed since. The Peron dictatorship, corruption, the violent era of the “desaparecidos” from the late 1970’s to the early 1980’s, and, more recently, a disastrous economy with 150% inflation in 2023, coupled by a newly elected populist president, made it even more intriguing. While cautioned about street crime, we were also encouraged to bring dollar bills to convert to pesos. A more advantageous alternative exchange rate called the “blue dollar” could be obtained on the street. I went to a small bodega known as a “cueva” or cave where a rather unsavory man handed me stacks of 1000 peso bills for my $250.

Locking most of the pesos in our hotel safe, we then headed for a rooftop bus trip through the city. On this scorching hot summer day, it took us by an Egyptian obelisk, along large avenues lined with government palaces and embassies, lush, emerald green parks, Art Nouveau styled doors, windows, and balconies and later, not so fancy neighborhoods. In spite of its modern skyscrapers and a thriving port, I couldn’t escape a sense of decay exemplified by rampant graffiti and a homeless population — something not so rare in the US either. But, unlike the US, in 2023, Argentina had a 150% inflation rate with much suffering and discord.

Below are images from the over the top Teatro Colon, El Ateneo, a former theater turned into an impressive bookstore and a famous cemetery where Evita Peron is entombed.

Later, wandering along its elegant large avenues, we encountered a demonstration protesting government cutbacks on cultural programs. Another contrast popped up when that evening, we visited the Alvear Hotel with its fancy dining room and stunning marble spiral staircase.

At the opposite end of the spectrum was the colorful but poverty-stricken La Boca neighborhood. Here, we encountered buildings with tin siding, some painted in bright colors. Outdoor markets also abounded with crafts, Argentinian leather products and music and tango dancing not far away.

Soon to follow: Patagonia, the Perito Moreno glacier and Ushuaia, the town at the southern tip of the world. Well, almost … Chile claims one too.

Feel free to visit my next piece: https://www.honeysharp.com/patagonia